Monday, September 26, 2011

Part VII - Qom

In the Name of the Most High

We're now in Isfahan, and I dearly miss Qom.  As one brother put it, the culture of Qom is truly unique, different from other holy cities such as Karbala, Mecca, and Medina.  Qom, the center of learning in Shi'a Islam, is a fountain of spiritual capital for those fortunate enough to visit it, attracting some for only a few days and others for years upon years of study.  Around the haram of Sayyida Masooma (as), Imam Ridha's sister, one sees throngs of ulema and students of knowledge who are dedicated to purifying themselves.  The entire purpose of living in Qom, in the proximity of Sayyida Masooma (as), is nothing other than attaining self-perfection.  The purpose of studying in the howzah in Qom is nothing other than attaining divine knowledge and, through implementation of that knowledge, attaining Divine Light through which one purifies himself and his surroundings.  Because of this, the environment in Qom is truly spiritual.

Among the many spiritually uplifting things to do in Qom, one can offer prayers behind the accomplished ulema who reside there.  During my visit, alhamdulilah I had the opportunity to pray behind Ayatullah Makarem Shirazi and Ayatullah Zanjani, who lead jamaat prayers everyday in the haram of Sayyida Masooma (as).  A brother and I also visited the offices of Ayatullah Javadi Amoli and were able to pray behind him in the small masjid attached to his office.  Praying behind these exalted personalities was memorable to say the least.  As I listened to their soulful recitation of Qur'anic chapters, I could sense the khushoo in their prayers and the deep concentration with which they humbly uttered praise of Allah (swt).  They were lost in God, and He was lost in them.  Now in Isfahan, praying alone in my hotel room, I feel spiritually deprived and cannot wait to be back in Qom.

During my time in Qom, I also came down with a severe sore throat.  The pain was rather unbearable for a few days; even swallowing food and talking were extremely painful.  After taking antibiotics for a few days, however, I started to feel better.  My inability to speak gave me time to reflect on one of God's greatest blessings: the power of speech.  Like that so many of the faculties that God has bestowed upon us for our growth and perfection, speech can and is often used for the wrong reasons.  Many of us use it to backbite, slander, spread gossip and rumors, make mischief, and commit other sins.  What if, instead, we restricted using our vocal cords to that which was necessary, to do dhikr of Allah (swt), and to enjoin the good and forbid the evil?  Perhaps Allah (swt) had put me in this situation to help me reflect on the purpose of speech, and to make me more grateful for it.  As is the case with many blessings, I didn't realize the extent to which the ability to utter words, construct sentences, and communicate with others was a blessing until it was temporarily taken from me.

Aside from Sayyida Masooma's (as) beautiful haram, the brotherhood in Qom is truly remarkable.  Allah (swt) tells us in The Holy Qur'an to vie with one another to do good deeds, and it seems that the people in Qom truly embody this principle.  One family in Qom let us stay as guests in their home for eight days.  Two other families invited us over for dinner.  Two other brothers met with me separately to share their experiences in the howzah in Qom and insisted on paying for my meal since I was a zaair.  While I had the sore throat, a sister threw together some homemade soup for me.  Everyone in Qom, it seemed, made an extra effort to ensure that our needs were met and that we were comfortable.

Now, I write from my hotel room in Isfahan with a certain heaviness in my heart, yearning to be back in Qom and the other holy cities.  I long to be back in the spiritual presence of the Chosen Guides for mankind, the Most Noble Messenger and his Purified Household, love of and devotion to whom lead the imperfect created to their perfect Creator.

Masjid Jamkaran; constructed on the orders of Imam Mahdi (as)

Shrine of Sayyida Masooma (as)

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